Going Global: Opportunities & Challenges

Kaye Crippen, Ph.D.
National Association of Women Business Owners (NAWBO)
U.S. A.

I. INTRODUCTION 

I am fortunate that I am able to take my love of textiles and technical textile background and help women in developing rural areas expand their horizons. I do not sell traditional textiles, but only advise how they can expand their markets. As an early entrant into the all male world of fibers and textiles at a major chemical company, I support women in all types of non-traditional careers. I have chosen to use examples from women weavers I have known in Asia. In Southeast Asia, where I lived and worked for ten years, women were the weavers.

 Traditionally, if you buy a textile from the maker, she will earn more. So I have sought out makers of textile arts and crafts from Chiapas to Guatemala and Peru to Bali, Jogjakarta, and Lanna in Northern Thailand. The first women’s co-operatives selling textiles I visited were in Mexico.

 Some women just sell into the local markets, i.e. in Lao. They make a product and sell it in the local market. They think they must sell their weaving there because they need the money quickly so as to purchase more materials for their next weaving. They can’t wait to find a buyer. This has kept many women from doing international business. However, this is changing there as tourism increased and they see other women making more money when they sell their own textiles from their own gallery. In Java, Indonesia, many women work in batik workshops were they get paid a wage, a very low wage.

 I would like to present a few case studies illustrating different ways women have become involved with international trade followed by some marketing guidelines.

 II. CASE STUDIES:

 As the world has discovered art textiles and weaving as well as other crafts women now have an opportunity to either sell directly to their client via their home shop, co-op, or e-business. There are opportunities for women who make arts and crafts as well as distribute them or do international retailing. In most cases it is the wholesaler and retailer who makes more money than the artist. Finding markets for products requires skill. In the first section we will look at ways women get their products to market and in the second we will examine marketing ideas.  

There are several ways that women can gain access to international markets including the following:

 1)      Redefining Internationalism – Tapping Tourists In Your Own Backyard

2)      Own Your Own

3)      Guide

4)      Partnerships

 Let’s take a look at some actual case studies. A Korean American, ___ is credited with the revival of the Korean ramie industry. Ramie, a traditional bast fiber and used in traditional costume, was in decline. ___

 Ways Women Take Product To Market  

1. Redefining Internationalism – Tapping Tourists In Your Own Backyard

 Isn’t the woman who hops a train in Southern China’s minority region and rides all the way to Beijing with textiles to sell to tourists doing international business? She is dealing with international clients on her home soil albeit thousands of miles away from her home. Yuji Doren sent photos of Bhutanese women selling yathras in Bumthang. An Australian project helped set up the sheep-rearing program. They sell to both locals and tourists at about the same price. The Bhutanese are trying to start a small loan program to encourage production of natural dyed yathras.  

In Jogjakarta, as well as in other places, there were two types of tourists, domestic and international. My research in Tenganan, Bali (Indonesia) where production of the sacred complex double ikat Geringsing cloths suffered a decline found a revival due to cultural tourism. It was about the only way women could earn money in the isolated village. The new cloths are only sold in the village with the maker selling directly from her workshop -home. This allows her to tend to her other chores and take care of her family. Although it helps them financially, the wages per hour remain low and the old antique textiles still get the highest prices. My research here was only to document and report on change and not to try to change what they were selling.

 However, in 1985, on my first trip here, I found them selling textiles from other islands that were more marketable. They were able to expand the sales of the Geringsing cloths as cultural tourism expanded and they say the women demonstrate how it was made. Tourists got a little appreciation of what was involved in the actual time-consuming difficult process. They did not change their motifs to fit tourists taste. In this case, tourists wanted authenticity including the use of natural dyes. Most came to rely less on the sale of textiles from other islands. The men, well they found that they could sell woven basketry.

 This necessitates understanding what the customer wants and how to reach far away markets. In Thailand, Queen Sirikit has sponsored weaving projects especially in Isan, where the ikat, mat mee, tradition continues thanks to her schools and sponsorship. This year her special birthday celebration, for her 6^th decade, will feature such textiles for sale in Bangkok; I bought some at her 5^th decade birthday event.

 In addition to earning money, most SEA cultures are changing so rapidly that much demand for their products may be located mainly outside their country. I witnessed the large parade and events on Sunday, May 23^rd here in Seoul and saw many participants in traditional costume. I purchased a natural dyed silk shawl scarf. More women are finding that they are responsible for the entire operation on their own.

 2.     On Your Own 

One of the first examples I got to know was Ibu Bin whose Bin House had her first locations in Jakarta and branched out to the airport retail location in Bali and Jakarta. She now has a retail outlet in Singapore at the Takeshimaya retail complex, and in France and Japan. Her former brother-in-law’s batik workshop produces the scarves and shawls and she helps with the design concept. She controls design, product, pricing, from concept through to merchandising at retail. It is also good that she has shops outside of  Indonesia because of the tourism decline. She has both domestic and international clients.

 Some are still unable to visualize the possibilities and are happy to sell just in their local market. Ms. Yin, a fashion designer has won numerous awards and exhibited in the U.S. twice. Two years, ago she and Jin Wen both were sponsored to participate in San Juan Missions World Weaving Event and at the Bower’s Museum where she sold custom orders. She was happy with the business they did there and in Nanjing, and does not want to expand although several of us tried to encourage her. A woman in London who started as an antique textile dealer has now expanded into the same type of market for new wearable Chinese costumes. With the number of Asians now in the U.S., there is a market for such products for wearing at ceremonies such as weddings, Chinese New Year celebrations, museum openings, etc. For those women who do not yet feel comfortable expanding internationally on their own there are other ways to do so as listed below.

3.      Guide

One model that I like includes market training including cross-cultural aspects of doing business, where the participants actually visit key target countries for their products to assess market potential and market needs. A small group does the market visit and afterwards makes the decisions as to which countries to select for export first. I worked on this model for a proposal to Tonga for developing the market for tapa cloth and prefer to train a team to handle all aspects. It requires quite extensive training. I have worked with Grant Vinning, Asian Markets Research with assessing markets for stone fruits and vegetables in Singapore and Malaysia. We are responsible for training, and arranging travel and appointments. Recently he lead a small group of Bhutanese to Japan to evaluate the market for medicinal herbs grown at high altitude.

4.       Partnerships

 There are several types of partnerships where someone with market knowledge and access joins with the maker. This occurs when someone is a routine supplier to a retail outlet. In this basic case, I like for the women involved to get recognition by having their products signed or name on the merchandise as the maker.

 The first type one of these I found was a local partnership in Sarawak on the Malaysian side of Borneo. Edric Ong an architect in Kuching, the capitol of Sarawak had visited up river with his father whose work had taken him there. In the early 1990’s, I met he and an Iban Dayak weaver from the 6^th Division, Bangie Embol, on her first visit outside of Sarawak. She demonstrated the silk warp ikat technique she had learned at a workshop with Ong. Generally silk ikat is warp technique. This was Ong’s first design collaboration with the Iban Dayak group. It grew out of a training workshop he organized in Kuching.  At the exhibition in Singapore, there were several presentations; I noticed Ibu Bangie as she watched the slides during my presentation. She had never seen other weavers using different techniques.  

Last year, Edric Ong and Bangie Embol, attended the 2003 World Weaving Event at the San Juan Capistrano Mission ten minutes from my house. The women weaver’s came to my house to see my textile collection and have dinner. In addition, to the great pua kumbas, their traditional cotton fiber ceremonial cloths, they are now making ikat shawls that sell for $300 - $400 U.S. Shawls are quite popular in Asia; however at this event they did not sell many. They had won a UNESCO prize and the shawls had the label. This points out some of the difficulties with developing new markets. Was it just the venue or are shawls of this size and type not so popular with an audience less familiar with Asian motifs. Or do women in the U.S. not wear large shawls in the summer? These are the type of market dilemmas even experienced marketers such as Mr. Ong face.

 In Sarawak, Ong has several types of conferences he organizes; people attending often go up river to see the original dyeing and generally buy items while in Sarawak. He also participates in e-business via his web site.

 In Asia, there are a large number of expatriate women familiar with the motifs. Museums routinely lead groups of women on study tours. I have led several of these to Tenganan, Bali and Kim Saunders, author and tour guide for cruise lines, will lead one to Indonesia again this year. It takes many people to make these markets work.  

Almost every museum has a gift shop and they are viewed as a moneymaker for the museum. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has had a fine retail outlet. Before arriving in Korea, I stopped in Singapore and visited the newly renovated Asian Civilisations Museum at 1 Empress Place. This was one of the nicest shops I had been in and they showed how some of the items were made i.e. the horsehair lacquer from Burma. The buyer and manager for all four National Museum gift shops also is responsible for over forty high end gift shops at the banyan tree. 

 Carol Cassidy, Lao Textiles, in Vientiane, gave up a secure position as a textile expert with the United Nations to start her own operation that now includes retail outlet in her home and workshop, e-biz, and custom orders. Her sister also sells in the U.S. She recently held an exhibition at the Craft and Folk Art Museum in San Francisco; weavers from Laos came over to participate as well. She also had an exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology and does private sales in the U.S.

 She has effectively used public relations to tell her story and has received editorial coverage in the New York Times, Washington Post and others. Years ago mainstream media would not cover such stories now they are newsworthy. Cassidy’s model has inspired many Lao women to have their own retail outlets. She has just taken over a Cambodian weaving group started by American veterans of the Vietnam War. One of Cassidy’s team modified the looms to accommodate women with prosthetic devices. Although the weavings are less complex, she is targeting a market not served in the $100 silk scarf range.

 One collaborative effort that I have not yet visited is Ockpocktock in Luang Prabang, Laos. The name means east meets west and is composed of a western woman and a Lao woman.

 As you see there are many roles women can play in taking textile arts and crafts and other products international and still retail the character or influence of the traditional products. It is important to evaluate how and where to start to maximize earnings. Determine what skills you may be lacking and then develop those skills. Instead of just saying, I can’t reach that market from where I am sitting or I need a western partner; explore all alternatives before making your decision.

 III. Marketing Guides:

 I am a strong proponent of training as related to basic marketing, product development, and more advanced training as needed. Some of the key aspects related to marketing include the following:

 1)      Product Assessment for International Markets

2)      Explore Market Development Opportunities

3)      Select Specific Segment to Target

4)      Select a Few Countries to Evaluate Potential

5)      Select Products

6)      Marketing Mission

7)      Develop Export Plan

8)      Pricing

9)      Marketing Materials – brochures, PR, word-of-mouth, internet (e-biz)

10)  Branding

11)  Distribution Issues

12)  Training

13)  New Product Development

14)  Market Expansion

 In this presentation, I will cover a few of the above points. I see lots of problems with the product pricing; women under price their products for the market. This is because they lack familiarity with the markets. Grant Vinning, Principal, Asian Markets Research and myself both believe in training and taking women to the markets where they plan to sell their products and participating in trade shows with a guide or consultant until they are ready to take over all the operations.

 Pricing

Nancy Guay, a United Nations weaving consultant, went to the Philippines in the mid-1980’s and immediately thought the women could make hats that had just become popular in the U.S. market. She said to the women, they could sell for $100. No one could perceive of this; it was too far removed from their experience to be believable.  She should have said, you will receive x $ per hat for producing it. She did go on to make beautiful ikat picture frames which I bought before I met Nancy.

 Too many times pricing, products, and customer needs are difficult for someone removed from the market to understand whether they are in rural Iowa in a rural area, Afghanistan, or Bhutan. One of the most difficult things to understand, if you are in a rural area or an area removed geographically from your target market, is what the customer wants and what they are willing to pay for it. The Internet has helped some especially for those who have gone on marketing missions. Many rural women have not been exposed to prices of let’s say scarves in designer shops in their countries’ urban areas.

 Product Attributes

Most are wearing “cultural blinders”. I noticed a great motif that the men hosts were wearing while I was attending a traditional textile conference in Jambi, Sumatra, Indonesia. I asked where I could purchase the same fabric and was told oh no, this motif is for men. My response was that in my country no one would know! To them, I was doing the unthinkable and of course never got the fabric I wanted. Too many times, determinations of what the customer wants are based on their cultural traditions of motif, color, scale, garment, etc. Many are not what the customer wants.

 However some learn fast. One Lao weaver knew that French women liked this color and American women others. Color, motifs, and scale tend to change rapidly in Western countries with fashion. However, many countries have traditional colors that seldom change. If one wants to sell in the west they must keep abreast of the colors via Internet or by getting color cards from fiber companies or Cotton Incorporated. I have tried to encourage fiber companies to partner with traditional weavers and use it as a public service advertisement or promotion, but thus far I have gotten no takers. The Wool Bureau in Australia did work with the Batik Research Institute in Jogjakarta to develop beautiful wool batik; however the crash of the rupiah made the purchase of Australian woolen fabrics unrealistic. 

 I had several custom pieces of batik commissioned at the Batik Research Center in Jogjakarta. I had two scarves made with the islands of the Indonesian archipelago spread across the scarf. One used natural dyes and the other used synthetic dyes. All of them had a good laugh. Who would want this? I told them that way I could remember Indonesia. I loved my scarves and always receive compliments on them. In many collaborations, the westerner designs the product and the local partner makes it. However, if the producer can also design and sell it, they will increase their profits.

 Product Development

One creative product that was developed by a friend at the Jogjakarta Batik Research Institute was a folding sun hat sold widely to tourists especially Japanese tourists. He curved bamboo to form the base and used a printed batik motif pattern as the main cloth. I never learned how he got the idea, but it hit the mark. He also sketched out a batik pattern for me of the famous Indonesian raffelesia flower that has the largest bloom in the world. As you can see my product ideas tend to be very specialized in terms of depicting culture and natural history.

 IV.  NAWBO Involvement

I want to encourage you all here to look at forming new partnerships and relationships and go back home and encourage women to reach out. As a member of the U.S. based National Association of Women Business Owners or NAWBO for short, I would like to encourage you to visit attend our national meetings. NAWBO is starting to outreach more into the international communities of women and has established an International Committee that I am a member of and serve as the Asia specialist.

One outreach example from the NAWBO chapter in Dallas – Forth Worth, Texas involved a group from the chapter going to Chiapas, Mexico. I have copied the following news article:

 What will a $50 loan buy?

A pig, a chicken, a sapling and more opportunity than Chiapas women ever dreamed possible

12:01 AM CST on Sunday, November 9, 2003

By RENA PEDERSON / The Dallas Morning News

The sun was barely up when the Dallas women began arriving at the private jet center at Love Field in October. Some came by Lexus, some by family Suburban. Not knowing exactly how to dress for a trip to the poorest state in Mexico, some wore blue jeans and some came in pantsuits, pearl necklaces and ivory bracelets.

There was a doctor, a lawyer, an investment banker, an interior designer, a foundation director, a restaurant owner, and an assistant district attorney. And there were four civic leaders well into their grandmother years, who quickly became known as "the ancestors." It was as diverse a group as you are likely to find in one plane: black, brown, white, blonde, petite, ample, 30-ish, 80-ish.

What the 30 women had in common was a desire to do something to help the poorest of the poor in Mexico.

 Kaye Crippen can be reached at kayecrippen@cox.net. She is the Asian Leader for the International Committee for The National Association of Women Business Owners (NAWBO) www.nawbo.org.

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